Am I doing something wrong with my install of TFP?

[barkles2008]

Currently our son is in the TFP (RF) in the middle seat. I have to say I bought the TFP with high hopes after hating the install of my AOmega and the fact he was above the height limit for RF but below the weight limit FF (and there was no mention of the 1inch rule in the manual so I wasn't cool with him in it anymore).

Anyways, while the size of the seat is great for him at 21 months. I HATE installing this seat with the seatbelt. Latches are much better but that would mean taking him out of the middle seat and no room for me in the passenger seat (I am 6ft tall)

I don't know if I am doing something wrong but here is how I do it: (takes me 20 minutes sometimes!)

With a shoulder belt in the middle seat of a toyota highlander.

feed belt through the RF belt path (with lock offs up and open).

Twist female end 3-4 times because otherwise it obstructs the lock offs.

Clip.

Pull seatbelt all the way out/loose so that it begins to lock when retracting.

Push and kneel down HARD to get rid of slack in belt.

**Here is where things go wrong** The belt slips down while tightening and covers the lockoffs. Trying to keep the belt up before I do the lock ups while also tightening requires significant luck and effort.

Once I get the belt tight and in place (which is hard) I lock off. And test for the 1" side to side etc rule. Often it takes three or for attempts to get the belt tight enough to limit the movement.

Am I doing things out of order? Or is this just the nature of the beast?

Does this carseat get easier FF? My DS will be turned around sometime after his second birthday when baby #2 arrives because I have yet to find a seat I can have behind me that gives me any room in the passenger seat.

 

[rachelandtyke]

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but IIRC, you don't have to lock the seatbelt since you are using the lock-offs. I have a TF, which I think installs nearly the same, and I've been able to get it in the center of my parents' Toyota Camry without difficulty. It may be easier if you're not trying to lock the belt with the rectractor.

 

[barkles2008]

I think you are right but I find it easier since while I am struggling to get the lock off clear of the belt the "locking" retractor keeps it tight for me. If I don't do it (I have tried with no retraction lock - or whatever you would call it), the belt gets loose and I have to start over.

I think it is the shoulder part of the belt that is screwing things up because it pulls the belt across the lockoffs funny. But I was wondering if I was missing something and should be pulling the belt tight at a different step.

Lock offs are last right?

 

[Brianna]

I've never installed a True Fit- but I find that easier than kneeling on a seat is sitting on it. I'm not sure if that will allow you easy access to the lockoffs, but it should keep the seat belt from loosening while you're installing.

Do you have to reinstall often? Is there somebody else that could help you install?

 

[barkles2008]

I have to reinstall more often than I like. We travel alot and my DS has been sick a few times in it

Right now I lean it to it with my belly and push all my weight on it. Obviously now I am pregnant again and will not be wanting to do that anymore. The kneeling never got a tight fit for me either. I haven't tried sitting, but am not sure how I could do that. Wouldn't my butt sit on the belt and make it harder to pull through?

My husband is useless with the car seat installs. He never gets it right when he does it.

 

[NatesMamma]

First, you said you twist the buckle 3-4 times. Up to 3 complete (360 degree) rotations is what's allowed.

And I know what you mean about those lock-offs! It's a known issue that some belts slip down into them when installing the seat. It's a pain to say the least.

In the middle of my CR-V, I remove the headrest from the TFP and get behind it. Then, using my hips to push the TFP in and down into the vehicle seat, I begin threading the seatbelt. I pull it as tightly as I can and buckle it. Then, holding the belt tight, I thread only the lap belt through the lock-off on the side opposite the buckle and close it. Now, with the lap belt threaded into one lock-off, I find that it's easier to close the second lock-off. Next, I pull the belt tight again and thread both the lap and shoulder belts through the lock-off next to the buckle. Finally, I go back to the first lock-off (the one with only the lap belt through it) and open it. Thread both the lap and shoulder belts through and close. The very last thing I do is "switch" the seat belt, which means to pull it all the way out and let it lock and retract on its own. This is just to keep DS from messing with it and is totally an optional step.

I need to twist my buckle stalk 2.5 full turns.

HTH! It *is* a process, and it took me quite a while to figure it out! LOL

 

[barkles2008]

ooo that is interesting trick with the single belt first then the shoulder belt. I will have to try that! (I push the seat the same as you I think and yes I take the head rest off and put it back on after)

I will double check my twists to make sure I am not going past 3.

Edit * and I won't bother "switching" the belt until the end and see if it helps (although last time I tried I didn't think it did) but maybe the combo of tricks will.

 

[snowbird25ca]

When I install the TF I tend to not tighten every last bit of slack out of the belt before closing the lock-offs, this gives me the ability to slide the belt if I need to in order to get the lock-off shut. Then I pin the shoulder belt and lap belt together with one hand while closing the lock-off with the other. Pinning them together prevents the belt from loosening. The way I pinch them I'm usually able to hold the webbing in place if I need to slide it out of the way of the lock-off closure as well. Once the lock-off is swung over, I lean down on it with one hand, then use my other hand that was previously pinning the lap and shoulder belt together, to close the tab. Typically I'll do the lock-off closest to the buckle first - it's just what I find easiest, but you can really do whichever one you find easiest to do first.

What kind of angle is the seat installed at? The lock-offs are generally easier to get closed and you have less of the belt slide problem when the seat is installed more upright. The seat can be in either #1 or #2 with your child's age, so I'd maybe play with the angle a bit depending on where you're currently installing it.

I've had the TFP in small cars like the toyota echo and mazda 3 sport before and there was room in the passenger seat when the seat was installed at a more upright angle. So maybe give that a try?

As for the buckle, it's allowed to twist a buckle stalk up to 3 complete (360*) twists. If 3 isn't enough, then you'll need to consider the seat incompatible in that seating position. The seat being more reclined would of course have the buckle further away from the belt path though, so this may be something that limits how upright you can put the seat in the center seating position.

 

[snowbird25ca]

The earlier post was posted while I was typing my last post. That is a really cool trick described above and I could definitely see it helping.

So far as locking the seatbelt, I would recommend not locking the seatbelt at all. I'm not sure what learning curve's official stance on it is, but in general you should only lock the belt by one method. With the seatbelt in use, it won't be long enough in most vehicles for a child to be able to loop it up around their neck and cause potential strangulation. And if you lock the belt, it could put a continual pressure on the lock-off that could compromise the strength of it over extended periods of time - and cause tilting which defeats one of the benefits of having lock-offs.

So I wouldn't switch the seatbelt at all without getting direct permission from the First Years.

 

[barkles2008]

He is in #2 recline and the ball is at the end so I doubt I could get much more upright.

I will be curious to see if I can try these tips without having the belt completely taught (ie no give to move the belt off the lockout). I don't get a great fit unless the belt is tight but yes the seat tilting has been a problem a few times, and I have to start over. I will try the pinching thing too. Maybe if I get a chip bag clip or something to hold it while I am wrestling that might work (removing it after)

 

[Pixels]

I have a technique similar to PP's that is useful both for getting the seat tight enough and for getting the lockoffs closed.

Thread seatbelt and buckle.

Intentionally pull some slack into the shoulder portion of the belt, and close the non-buckle side lockoff.

Pull some of that slack down into the lap belt, so you can get a good grip on it. Close the buckle side lockoff.

Open the non-buckle side lockoff. Push down on the seat on that side, pull the lap belt tight, and close the lockoff over both layers of belt. I find that it slips if only one layer of belt is used. The bit of lap belt between the vehicle anchor point and that lockoff should be nice and tight, the rest loose.

Open the buckle-side lockoff. Pull the lap belt slack out. Push down on the buckle side of the seat, pull the belt tight, and close that lockoff. Now all of the lap belt is tight, but there's a bubble of excess webbing in the shoulder portion trapped between the lockoffs. At this point, you can check the seat for an inch or less of movement.

Once you have an inch or less of movement, you just have to take out the bubble of slack from between the lockoffs. Open the non-buckle side lockoff, take the slack out. This is your last chance to level the seat, if it's tilting and that bothers you. Close the lockoff, and you're done.