Locking Latchplate Information Thread

Keeanh

Well-known member
Since I have such affection for the often-misunderstood locking latchplate, I'm posting a bit of info here and am hoping others will add to it :). Please also feel free to correct me!


How a Locking Latchplate Works

If you look inside a locking latchplate, you'll see a locking bar (red arrow) which moves, and a friction point or plate of some sort (yellow arrow) which is stationary. The friction point may also simply be the metal “frame” of the plate. The belt goes around the locking bar. This locking bar moves depending on which direction the belt is being pulled. The friction point holds the belt in place through friction when the latchplate is "locked".

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If the "lap" part of the belt is being pulled parallel with the latchplate, the locking bar pulls up and pinches the belt against the friction point. This keeps the belt from sliding through.

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If the "lap" part of the belt is pulling at a right angle to the latchplate, the locking bar will not be forced up, and therefore the belt is not locked.

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This can cause previously tight installs to loosen on their own. It doesn’t mean a locking latchplate is unsafe. It just means you have to turn the latchplate upside down so that the tight lap belt is now pulling the locking bar up against the friction point.

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Keeanh

Well-known member
UNTWISTING YOUR LATCHPLATE​

Sometimes, locking latchplates end up looking like they were put on backwards. It's easy to fix. First, twist the seatbelt and give it a bit of a crease. It's easier (at least with mine) if you twist it in the direction shown in the photos, but it doesn't really matter. Then, slide the latchplate over the creased seatbelt. Make sure the locking bar (marked with the red arrow), which the belt goes around, is down (thus "unlocking" it).

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Keeanh

Well-known member
Installing Car Seats with a Locking Latchplate

Your vehicle's owner's manual likely tells you to buckle, pull tight, and you're done. Sometimes it's that simple, but sometimes you need a trick or two. I’m hoping the experienced techs on the board will have some tips to add. These are a few that have worked with my (admittedly limited) installs over the years.

1. Make sure the belt is flat going through the latchplate. Bunching the belt, or pulling to the side at all can easily jam a locking latchplate.

2. It sometimes works better to pull the belt tight through the belt path. If you pull straight up, this can create more friction, and give the impression that you've tightened the lap part of the belt as much as you can, when in reality, it may still be a bit loose. That friction that keeps the belt from loosening can also prevent the belt from sliding the other way to tighten.

3. If you're still having trouble getting the lap portion tight, here's a trick I use. Keep the belt buckled to do this. For FF seats, I use my knee to push down and tip the seat towards the belt anchor (away from the buckle). Then I use one hand to hold the lap belt against the edge of the belt path ("locking" it in place by friction on the corner of the belt path), and then use the other hand to pull the shoulder portion tight as I rock the seat towards the buckle with my knee. The combination of rocking the seat and holding the lap belt down feeds all the slack into the latchplate without the tension that locks the latchplate.

For RF seats, you can do the same thing if you can get your body behind & leaning over the seat, and use your whole body to rock the seat. If you don't have that much room in your vehicle, you have to use hand 1 to push down on the anchor side. Then hand 2 has to both hold the lap belt and push down while hand 1 now pulls the shoulder belt or tail tight.

4. If you have a low belt path, the lap portion of the belt may be somewhat perpendicular to the latchplate. This will cause the latchplate to stay "unlocked". You can fix this by turning the latchplate “upside down” (or “backwards” if you like) as in the photo.

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If you have long buckle stalks (the female end), It may also help to twist the belt stalk down (up to three full twists) to get the buckle away from the belt path.
 

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